Wine Festival

Wine and Dine Wine.

    Portillo boasts a spirited drinking culture. If you put the pieces together, it totally makes sense: Chile is the world’s fifth largest exporter of wine, and Mendoza, home of the Malbec, is right next-door. Add a mountain man’s fondness for aprés-ski to these geographical (and cultural) considerations, and you get a hotel that honors the beverage and those who drink it. But don’t get me wrong, Portillo is not a frat party and canned beer is a rarity – a “specialty” I’ve only enjoyed in my Siberia. The drinks of choice here are premium Pisco sours and fine wines. Considering our location, how couldn’t they be?

    This week, however, Portillo is all about WINE. Good wines from all over Chile. Remember Wine Week from July? Well now it’s late August, we’re entering the season’s final stretch, and we’ve renamed it WINE FESTIVAL. Is this week any different from our last vino extravaganza? Of course not! With nightly wine tastings and giveaways from such vineyards as Casas del Bosque (Sunday), Concha y Toro (Monday), and Anakena (Tuesday), what is there to improve? Only the most naïve and intrepid drinkers, and I’m mostly talking about gringos my age, would want more free alcohol. Let us not forget that skiing is still the (adult) priority. But speaking of skiing, free booze, and good times, and I hope I’m not out of line here, allow me to outline Sunday.

9am to 5pm - Ski Portillo (maybe a beer at lunch?)
5pm to 6 pm – “Once,” meaning Tea and Coffee
6:30pm to 7:30pm – Wine Tasting of Casa del Bosque
8pm to 9pm – Welcome Cocktail (pisco, more wine, pisco, wine)
10pm- 2am – Bar/Disco/Posada migration

My point is that here, in a little place called Portillo, the beer flows like wine. Moreover, this week the beer is wine! To be honest I’ve yet to attend a tasting this season. I enjoyed my share last year, and, if things are going my way, I’m working by then anyways. From the desk, all I observe is the crowd of well-dressed people trolling the lobby, waiting for the doors to open. Then, an hour later, I get to salute the purple-lipped passersby, who are already asking to sign up for tomorrow. Que bueno.

New Kids on the Noise

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     I didn`t know anything about these guys until earlier today. I`m your dorky gringo, who likes Manà and Manu Chao. But tonight is the CORONA PARTY in the DISCO and the New Kids are bringing the music (noise). More than a few of the employees, including the regular dj, have been plugging the duo, who I`ve been told are somewhat big in Santiago. What I do know is that they played at Lollapalooza Chile earlier this summer, which immediately makes New Kids bigger than the bands we`re used to seeing up here. Much bigger.

    So I`ve been listening to tracks off their facebook page for the past half hour. Mash-up type stuff. It`s nothing too original, but they´re good. In all honesty, I`ll dance to anything that isn`t Cumbia or Reggaeton. Sorry, my latino friends, I gave it a chance. Anyways, Fridays are always fun, and tonight looks to be a topper. Between the free-flowing Corona, tonight`s sponsor, and good ole fashioned party music, it`ll be easy to forget that tomorrow is Saturday*...

*Saturdays, if I´ve failed to mention, are generally hellish workdays in reception. It`s the end of the ski week and the start of a new one, meaning we get swamped with check-ins Seriously, I get cramps just thinking about it. 

Twinnings Polynesia Portillo

     Portillo staffers often compare the hotel to a cruise ship. Without a nearby village, all food, entertainment, and lodging are, like with a cruise ship, contained in one place.* But I hate that analogy. Cruise ships are fine - if you`re looking to do nothing and gorge yourself for ten days. Food poisoning, pirates, and binging are all things we here at Portillo try to avoid. So let`s scrap the cruise ship analogy. Yes, this a self-contained establishment, but it is immobile and classy. The surrounding waters are all frozen.

 (photo courtesy of Diego Alvarez)

     Despite the rant, I will admit that, especially this week, Portillo is wearing its sailor`s cap. It`s Family Week once again and the hotel has more going on than a Disney liner. Since Saturday there`s been a magic show by Carlos Arce, a Polynesian dance and music hour, and an intimate wine tasting of the Garces Silva Vineyard. In between these nightly events have been daily yoga and pilates classes, futbòl tournaments, and tubing sessions. Let`s not forget that we`re in the middle of the Copa de Amèrica tournament, meaning games are being screened daily in both the disco and cine. Go back a few posts (Chile vs. Mexico) to understand the futbòl ethos in Portillo.

     For better or worse, there will be no more Chileans dancing like Polynesians this week. The remaining activities, though, should keep guests busy and satisfied. Tomorrow night Twinings returns for another tea tasting. Despite my initial doubts, these tastings have become quite popular. Sober, aromatic fun. On Thursday the weekly Carrera de Sol will be held all day on Plateau (it`s a ski race) for anyone who`s interested. The winners will be announced on Friday, and the award ceremony is always fun. I expect that instructor Heidi will bust out her accordion for the occasion. Also on Friday, as the last big event, is the Red Bull Party. Here`s the scene: beautiful people chugging liquid energy, techno pours from the background. Dreams come true. Everyone remembers their last night in Portillo fondly, albeit vaguely. So that`s the week in sum. As always, join us.

*Technically, there`s also the Posada, the understated employee hangout across the street. Not many guests venture in that direction, however. I`m probably the only one who advertises it in reception. Even though it will always belong to the community of employees,  if you`re going to spend a week at the hotel, the Posada is a must-do.




Portillo in a day

     I need to get something off my chest: I`ve been here for two weeks and haven`t been skiing. I know I´m a fraud. The ski blogger who hasn´t been skiing. Fortunately, those cruel circumstances have changed and I was lapping Plateau from nine to five today. The reality was that with our present snow conditions, employees were barred from the slopes. Even the hallowed instructors were told to stay away from off-piste terrain. It`s an understandable decision, really. Portillo needed to conserve the snow that it had for paying guests. But, as I said, all of that changed today. Although WE`RE STILL NOT SELLING DAY TICKETS (I apologize in advance to those who didn`t get the memo and show up tomorrow expecting to ski), the receptionists were allowed a beautiful ski day, and beautiful it was.


The view from Tio Bob`s (photo circa last season)

     I began my morning with pate de cerdo on a stale roll. Some coffee too. Typical employee power breakfast. By nine o`clock I was riding up Plateau lift, the yellow hotel growing smaller and smaller behind me. What´s great about Plateau is that it`s fast and steep. Within minutes, I´m hopping on Condor, the va et vient lift near the top of Plateau, which takes skiers up another 500 ft. If you`ve never used one of Portillo`s t-bars, you`re missing an integral ski experience. Condor, four "seats" wide, literally tears up a 25 degree pitch at ten miles per hour. Approximately. If you`re not ready, the ride is over in seconds. Good skiers and boarders fall off the va et vients all the time. I, of course, made it to the top just fine - but not without holding on for dear life. The consequent run from there to the bottom of Plateau has three different pitches, lots of advanced terrain, and plenty of room for everyone. By 9:20, I was on my way back up Plateau, ready for more.


Another view from Tio Bob`s (photo circa today)

       I was up and down Plateau and Condor until close to noon, when my legs forced me to break and grab some water. My Portillo roommate of two years runs the Ski Box, one of two on-mountain restaurants operated by the hotel, so it`s a regular stop for me. The Ski Box is just that: a box. It sits at the bottom of Las Lomas, near la Princesa, waiting for the tired and hungry to come by for a beer. Sitting with my boots off on the Ski Box patio, I couldn´t have been happier. Portillo is such a beautiful place, no matter where you`re looking. I basked in the sun for an hour before leaving to meet a friend at Tio Bob´s for lunch. Now the Ski Box and Tio Bob`s are two very different establishments. The former is meant to be a quick stop. It`s seating is only outdoors, and the menu consists of easy fixes and lots of beverages. Tio Bob`s, on the other hand, is a definition restaurant, complete with a wait staff, indoor seating, and an array of excellent food options. What separates Tio Bob`s, however, from every other on-mountain restaurant that I`ve visited is the view... and the salads. The view is: unbelievable, unbeatable, scary, and 360 degrees. You can look down onto the Laguna, back towards the hotel, or up at the jagged peaks that surround the restaurant. For the view alone, Tio Bob`s is a must-do for all guests. But the greatness of Tio Bob`s doesn`t stop at the view. As I alluded to, the salad options are absolutely incredible. Of course, there`s a selection of hamburgers, choripans, and steaks. Yet it`s the gigantic host of fresh and creative ingredients at the salad bar that always surprise and impress. Today, I ate more vegetables in one sitting than I`ve had in months. This was followed by a cold beer. Too good.

The Ski... Box

By three o`clock it was time to call it quits. My next move was classic Portillo: a dip in the hot tub. Sore muscles needed relaxing, and there`s nothing better than some pool time after a hard day of skiing. I floated, waded, and watched the sky. The views never stop here. After the soak, it was off to the showers and the reception desk, where I´ve been since five. One of evening`s first queries was, "How are the ski conditions?"... Finally, I thought, I can answer truthfully. "Increible," I replied. "We skied all day and the snow was great."

Season Calendar

     At Portillo every week is special. Of course, some weeks are more special than others, and throughout the year the hotel offers a number of different promotions and events for guests to enjoy. So in line with my goal to make this blog as informative as possible, I`ve outlined each and every one of these deals. Further details can be found at:

- http://www.skiportillo.com/espanol/special_weeks
- http://www.skiportillo.com/espanol/promotions

June 9 - 30 : Family Weeks
For three weeks in June, there will be tons of activities designed especially for children and young adults, as well as combined events for the entire family. Let the games begin!

*(Associated Promotion)*
1 Child without charge
During the following dates, each family can bring one child between the ages of 4 and 11 to ski and sleep entirely for free:

• June 25 - July 2
• September 10 - 24

2 Children without charge
During the following week, any mother or father paying in full can bring two of their children between the ages of 4 and 11 to ski and sleep entirely for free:

• September 24 - October 1

July 30 - August 6 : Wine Week
As in years past, wine week offers guests the delicious chance to taste, as well as hear the stories behind, some of the best wines in Chile. The week, which consists of a different tasting each night, is easily one of our most popular, so it is  recommended that reservations are made far in advance.

August 20 - 27 : Friends Week
Friends week aims to provide a memorable experience for younger guests, large groups of friends who want a fun and lively vacation. Like Family Week, there will be activities organized throughout the week in the hope that guests can build new friendships and solidify old ones.

August 27 - September 3 : Wine Fest
Wine Fest is essentially a glorified continuation of Wine Week. Accordingly, guests will have the opportunity to try incredible wines and learn about the world of wine making. At the end of each presentation, guests will be asked a few questions, with the winner receiving special prizes.

*(Associated Promotion)*
Free Night at the Ritz-Carlton Santiago
During the following dates, upon reserving a Ski Week in Portillo, guests may solicit a night free in the hotel Ritz-Carlton in Santiago. It´s a great way to ease the stressful transition between the airport and Portillo.

• August 20 - September 3

     If any of this is confusing, or just seems to good to be true, leave a question and/or comment below and I'll be sure to clear things up. With so much going on, it's important to get the details straight. Anyways, hope this helps!.... Also, it's snowing like crazy right now. Powder day tomorrow.

Cocktail de Bienvenida

Yesterday evening marked the season's first Welcoming Cocktail! As always, the event included an assortment of drinks and finger foods for guests to enjoy, as they mingled casually with each other, ski instructors, and other staffers. The cocktail takes places each and every Sunday, and for many it's the first opportunity to socialize, maybe catch up, and even meet possible instructors for the coming week. Owner Henry Purcell and his family even attend, a reflection of the management's desire to welcome guests at all levels.

     In my opinion, the event represents the best that Portillo has to offer: delicious Pisco sours (just kidding). In reality, the cocktail's casual and friendly nature is an excellent way for guests to get acquainted with the hotel and its employees. Because after a long of travel - whether it's from Mendoza, Sao Paulo, or Boston - there's nothing more inviting than a room full of friends, food, and wine.