Sunday, July 31, 2011

The end of July

     Today's entry is an unbiased photographic comparison from this season of Valle Nevado and Ski Portillo. I won't tell you which ones are which until the end, making the process totally fair. So what's the more picturesque resort?







     Big red and the bunny slopes are Valle Nevado. The final two, including the yellow behemoth featured above, are from Portillo. Could you tell the difference? If you're a fan of Valle, know that my slanderous posts against our unsightly competitor are over. Valle tries hard and that's what counts... Sometimes you just can't fight mediocrity.

Saturday, July 30, 2011

Gringo Storm Saturday

      Another Saturday storm. As much I appreciate the snow gods' favor, they should know better. It's the weekend. Save the blizzard for Monday, Thursday, I don't care, and spare Portillo the only day it needs the road to be open. Fortunately, drivers brought out the chains and more than enough caravans braved the curves. It's a good week to be in Portillo, and guests tried hard to get here.

   To begin with, it's Wine Week (season calendar). Connoisseurs and casual drinkers alike are going enjoy nightly tastings of Chile's finest wines, each of which will be festively capped off with trivia and giveaways. I swear that that last part is classier than it sounds. Besides the anticipated vino fest, new guests have also been humming to ski what we expect to be 20 inches by tomorrow. Now that they're here, checked-in and cozy, they're happy. Between last week's gifting and tonight's addition, August conditions are looking hopeful. Total snowfall this season is still relatively low (~220 cm), so more is always good.

   The only problem I foresee is the commencement of gringo season. This week is a nationality overlap, with a mix of Peruvians, Brazilians and North Americans all arriving this afternoon. However, even the slight uptick in gringos means more skiers on Roca Jack, Cara Cara, and everywhere else I like to ski. The logic is simple: only serious skiers will trade Hawaii for Portillo, and the beach for the mountain. Those same skiers, if they're here, will also go immediately to the traverses. At the same time, I love seeing old dudes hollering down chutes. It's nice to share sometimes. Nobody wants to be greedy, and with so much good terrain, even a few gringos won't be able to shred it all.


    Below is the Santiago skyline from Wednesday morning. My feelings regarding cities haven't changed, but the view from my friend's apartment was stunning. The second photo needs little explanation. Valle Nevado is clearly ugly, flat and crowded.


All the people living here (Santiago)...

... are building property here (Valle Nevado)


Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Santiago

    Leaving Portillo for the Santiago is strange. Whites become browns, and the tranquility that I´ve grown used to dissipates into in dusty crowds of cars and people. It´s not always easy to drop down into the valley, where society's problems rear their ugly head. I discovered long ago that I dislike cities, and it's been easy to avoid them. Sure, there's "lots to do" in Santiago or elsewhere; people breed culture. However, these same locales are rife with poverty, waste, pollution, and crime, as well as the gross materialism that pervades over the entire project. These are harsh words, but, as I said, leaving Portillo is strange. Of course, the hotel is plagued by the same problems, on a smaller scale of course, as the rest of society. Yet the isolation is liberating. Portillo lets us feel somehow apart, away from it all.

    Fortunately, my stay in Santiago will be a short one. Tomorrow morning I´m off to Valle Nevado for two days, migrating back to Portillo on Friday. To be honest, this will be my first real "ski trip" in Chile. Portillo was it for me last year. Four months straight in the mountains. But this being my second season, I decided it was time to venture off and, you know, scout the competition. From what I've heard Valle is big and flat. It's got a reputation for being overcrowded, congested even. Almost anyone will tell you that Portillo is by far the better resort hotel home destination. That being said, I'm going to leave my bias in Santiago, where it belongs, and check it out for myself!

Monday, July 25, 2011

Misty Lifts

     Today was a surprise. The forecast had predicted a few centimeters, flurries no más. What we got was close to 10 cm,  which was more than enough to cover old tracks on Cara Cara and Roca Jack. Juncalillo was groomed and soft, and the two t-bars were servicing everything from fun crud to freshies off the traverses.  Rocks, affectionately known as "tiburones" here, were only a mild concern. The mountain is skiing well, and last night's storm was quite the gift.

View of Cara Cara from Juncalillo
      It's my free week, so I'll be out again tomorrow. Since it's Portillo my expectations are high. When I stumbled home around 2:30, there was plenty left unskied. As always, the only ones gunning for good snow were fellow employees and the boys from Activejunky.com. What tomorrow is unlikely to duplicate will be the ethereal blanket of clouds that hung around all morning. Juncalillo was spooky good.

Crossing over


"Yes, the road will be closed all day."


Look at the icicles

Sunday, July 24, 2011

Portillo por la Noche

     With no snowfall since last Saturday, the vibe here has been mellow during the day and festive at night. There’s no reason to get up too early, which means all the more reason to stay out late. As much as I love heaps of fresh powder, it was nice to wake up on Tuesday at 10:30. A friend and I skied until late afternoon before taking a long lunch in the sun. After that, I lapped Lake Run twice more and called it a day. It wasn’t four o’clock yet so I dropped by the pool. I skied once more this past week, on Thursday, and it was more of the same. Parts of the traverse aren’t bad, but getting to the good stuff takes awhile. Everything else off-piste is skied out, including Roca, which got hounded quickly (Roca pre-opening). But like I said, mellow isn’t bad and with so much pent up energy guests were more than willing to fill the bar disco Posada until late night.

     “Entretenciones,” as well as the bar staff, need to be thanked publicly. It was a fun week, to say the least, and both departments worked hard to make it happen. The Corona Party was everything advertised: two for one Coronas and loud music. Guests and employees of all ages packed the dance floor. I’ve rarely seen the disco as full. It’s always hard to tell what brings people out past midnight. I swear the equation never changes, and yet some nights blow up. The only difference was a couple of well-known dj’s, which I guess was enough.

     The fate of the nightlife is entirely up to the guests. My friends and I, the fifty some instructors, and a few others like to go out – and we’re out all the time.* But we’re not enough to make the party, so when guests gripe to me about a downer evening, I point out the fallacy of such complaints: they are the party. Again, the equation never changes. Moreover, the equation is well though out. Check this out: free cocktails from 7-8, dinner, drinks and live music in the bar from 10:30-12, more music and conversation in the disco from 12-2, and, if you’re still up, the Posada stays open until 3 in the morning. It’s not a bad cycle, but it’s up to you, readers and future guests, to populate each location. Pace yourselves and have a good time. If you have no idea what’s going on, the party schedule is published nightly in reception.
   
     Look what happens to the blog when there’s no new snow! I ramble on about the nightlife. Don’t come here for the nightlife! It’s a plus, but Portillo is an isolated hotel deep in the Andes. Any sort of nightlife should come as a surprise!** Like I said, our entertainment department does a great job at keeping everyone occupied when the ski day ends. However, Portillo is a centro de esqui, and that’s what we do best. Today, for example was clear and sunny. It was a great day to lap Plateau and Juncalillo, maybe stop by Tio Bob’s for lunch. Even without new snow, the mountain is impressive. So if you’re planning a visit, make skiing the priority – and let the nightlife pleasantly surprise you.



*Technically, the entire hotel staff goes out every night. Come 1 am, the Posada is always full, almost without exception. But 90 percent of the guests, at their own fault, never venture over to the Posada, so it’s not a part of the conversation

**The Posada is, again, the exception. There are four hundred employees with nothing to do besides work and enjoy each other’s company. In other words, the Posada being packed every night is hardly a surprise.

Friday, July 22, 2011

New Kids on the Noise

facebook
     I didn`t know anything about these guys until earlier today. I`m your dorky gringo, who likes Manà and Manu Chao. But tonight is the CORONA PARTY in the DISCO and the New Kids are bringing the music (noise). More than a few of the employees, including the regular dj, have been plugging the duo, who I`ve been told are somewhat big in Santiago. What I do know is that they played at Lollapalooza Chile earlier this summer, which immediately makes New Kids bigger than the bands we`re used to seeing up here. Much bigger.

    So I`ve been listening to tracks off their facebook page for the past half hour. Mash-up type stuff. It`s nothing too original, but they´re good. In all honesty, I`ll dance to anything that isn`t Cumbia or Reggaeton. Sorry, my latino friends, I gave it a chance. Anyways, Fridays are always fun, and tonight looks to be a topper. Between the free-flowing Corona, tonight`s sponsor, and good ole fashioned party music, it`ll be easy to forget that tomorrow is Saturday*...

*Saturdays, if I´ve failed to mention, are generally hellish workdays in reception. It`s the end of the ski week and the start of a new one, meaning we get swamped with check-ins Seriously, I get cramps just thinking about it. 

Wednesday, July 20, 2011

The Lake Run

From the top of Lake Run
     Ski patrol, understandably, likes to pace itself. One by one, day after day, they`re pulling ropes and opening new lifts. First it was Plateau and Las Lomas, followed by Condor some days later. On Monday morning it was Juncalillo, then Cara Cara in the afternoon. Today it was the Lake Run, aptly named. Actually, it`s really not a run per se. Runs have boundaries, signage. Runs get groomed nightly. With the Lake "run," there is only space, a wide slope extending to the lake shore. From the top, it`s quite a sight: the Laguna below, Los Tres Hermanos to the right, and across the lake a stretch of equally imposing peaks. The run itself is a series of gullies and ridges scattered with boulders. It`s a large enough zone that no line has to be the same. Basically, the Lake Run is a blast to ski. Hopefully today was just one of many this season.

     What truly distinguishes the Lake Run, though, is the traverse back to the hotel. Since the lake has yet to freeze over, the dilemma is making it home without getting wet. For years, the solution has been a thin road that meanders, somewhat treacherously, along the cliff edge. It`s a ski-length wide, and the only thing separating you from the cold waters meters below is a metal fence.  In all honestly, the Lake Run cat-walk couldn`t exist in the states. But here, in the Chile, in the Andes, a dangerous traverse kind of makes sense. Yeah, it`s quite the drop. Yeah, you could die. Yet passengers understand the risks being taken - plus there`s the fence. In South America, or at least in Argentina and Chile, there isn`t the same glut of lawsuits as there is in the states. The system is too slow and too clogged to file suit. I`ve been paragliding in Mendoza without signing a release form. I`ve gone white water rafting in Peru sans helmet or any kind of safety debriefing. Similarly, Portillo has a signature traverse, by which unsupervised skiers slowly find their way home along the cliff and waters edge. It`s puro chileno and Portillo wouldn´t have any other way.

In sight of the hotel
     In other local ski news, Roca Jack is definitely opening tomorrow. The delay has been both the lack of snow and the fact that getting the va et vient operational is an intensive process. Basically heavy cables need to be dragged from the bottom of Roca to the top. Mechanics and ski patrol surrounded the base station all day. There were also 10-15 individuals on the upper slope, merely specks in the adjacent photo, literally passing the cable to the highest anchors. Roca Jack is probably the most beloved part of the mountain, as it is the access point to the Super-C and the best traverses. The only bitter part about tomorrow is that I´m working from 8 am to 4 pm. However, if I`ve learned anything here, it`s that the snow will stay until I´m skiing again on Friday. The hotel is full, but the slopes are empty. Roca`s opening and practically no one cares, apart from the employees. Plus my dad always said "Patience is a virtue." The irony is that no matter how many days I wait, I´m still skiing in July, too impatient to wait until November...
 
Patrol hoisting the cable up Roca Jack

Soon
Vicente - in his element


Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Portillo por día

Some updates are in order. Enough snow fell from the last storm that:

1. Portillo is selling day tickets.
This is a big one. People were getting upset. Our facebook page was actually getting spammed badly with angry posts from what I assume were perfectly reasonable human beings. That is, perfectly reasonable before being told that Portillo was closed to the public. Then they freaked out. Are we that great? I guess so, as I saw a few of the posts and they were kind of ridiculous. Skiing (in bounds) isn`t some kind of naturally given right. What reason does anyone have to get angry, and I mean really angry, at us for closing Portillo? The answer is none. Grow up... and then come skiing. It`s only slightly less expensive than tickets in the U.S., but obviously well worth it.
   $33.000 / adulto
   $22.000 / menor
   More info here.

2. Juncalillo has been opened.
The run is national team training grounds every summer. It`s easily our longest run, super fun, and generally uncrowded. Plus the lift, which passes over the road to Portillo, is just incredible. Nobody likes traffic, until they`ve seen it from the air. Hundreds of trucks pass by the hotel everyday (we're a half-mile from a major border crossing), and Juncallilo gives skiers a bird`s eye view of the absurd congestion, which practically reaches Los Andes
  
3. Cara Cara is up and running.
Condor was getting old. Now with the other side of the mountain operational, most of the traversable terrain is skiable. All that`s left is Roca Jack, but from what I hear patrol plans on opening Roca this week. That would mean everything but Vizcachas will be open by the end of the week. Que bueno.

Monday, July 18, 2011

Oh, man.

     My first true powder day of the season... Remember all that angst? Remember my pain? Well the higher ups here in Portillo recognized my suffering and permitted me to ski yesterday. That's putting it lightly. Management gave my buddies and I  the go-ahead to shred the gnar, to lay serious turns, and enjoy the best day of skiing that I've had since... well, since February. Skiing in July is one thing; getting untracked powder during peak summers months is what really gets me.

El Sol de Portillo
    Plateau, Condor, la Garganta, it was all fresh. And as soon as something started getting torn up, we just traversed further over. Portillo is like that. From the get go, the only ones competing for fresh lines were a handful of instructors and my diverse little group of employee buds. To quote my friend Morgan, "this was the most relaxed powder day of my life!" The guy's from Aspen, and he's used to cutthroat tactics, selfish abandon when it comes to new snow. At Portillo, the vibe is different. We took our time. We took pictures for god's sake! I mean, why not? It was a beautiful day, with little to no competition. I know I sound like a broken record at this point, but it's simply the truth: it's an empty mountain with tons of unskied, off-piste goodness. It wasn't your typical powder day. It was better. Now for the evidence (thanks for the pics, Mo!):

Below Plateau
Mid-day chair
Tele-Mo
the receptionist





Saturday, July 16, 2011

Ski lobby

     The precipitation has stopped, and it's your typical bluebird day in Portillo. I forgot my sunglasses in the hotel after a late night at the disco, and leaving the Siberia was truly painful. That is until my eyes adjusted.  Fresh snow covered everything. It's hard to tell where the light is coming from here, the glossy slopes or the sun beaming above them. Although there are no trees in Portillo, color is everywhere. The blue sky, the yellow hotel, the brown and hard black peaks. I savor the slow walk to the hotel on days like this... I would be skiing, but rules are rules - employees ski during the week only. But I don't complain. I'm still here, taking it in, and the truth is, skiing is just one way to enjoy these beautiful surroundings.

   Still, I've got a friend from the states visiting Portillo tonight and tomorrow, and I'm going to lobby management to make an exception. Let's be honest, it's going to be a powder day again tomorrow. I'll say it again: snow stays fresh longer than it should in Portillo (see Guests and groomers). Anyways, My friend has only one day to ski, and it's also tomorrow. The stars have clearly aligned in our favor, Morgan. I'm banking on good ol' skier's sympathy. The rule makers enjoy the sport as much as I do, so I'm hoping they understand. Here's my angle:

40 cm in the last 24 hrs.
70 cm in the last week.
Two gringo friends from Vermont (ice) have the opportunity to ski together in Chile (polvo).

     Comment furiously in my favor. Maybe it'll help. As some mild encouragement, enjoy a few pictures from yesterday's storm and the beautiful aftermath that was this morning. As always, for more info on life and skiing at Portillo, check out our facebook page. Señor misterio de facebook, who`s good friend of mine, boards almost daily, and I'm guessing he's uploaded photos already.




Yeah, dog

Friday, July 15, 2011

El Storm

It's been snowing all morning. It snowed all night.
Many a guest fled the scene yesterday, anticipating road closure. Well, they guessed right: the road's going to be closed all day. Hooray for those who stayed!
The forecast says a couple more feet. Eso es.
All I know is that we need it. I need it.
Plateau is fantastic, but Roca Jack is better. So is Juncalillo. So is Cara Cara. And they remain closed.
In other words, we need it!
However, no skiing for me today. Princesa and Corralito are obviously open, but not much else. Hence, the pool shot.

More Photos po.

Stay tuned.

Quarter Japanese snow monkey

Thursday, July 14, 2011

¡Bem-Vindo a Portillo!

     Portillo is all about seasons. High season, low season. Gringo season. You name it. During orientation, receptionists are told to expect the following: Brazilians ski during July and North Americans during August. Argentines get scattered throughout the winter, while Chileans pack the house in late September. Although I`m clearly generalizing, these are real trends. And from these "demographic shifts" follow some funny changes in the hotel and on the mountain.

     For example, I fear answering the phone during the Brazilian ski weeks. As mentioned, the hotel is temporalily annexed by Ski Brazil for the month of July and Portuguese reigns king. Obviously it and Spanish are quite similar, but barring totally fluency in the latter, Portuguese is a messy language for gringos. With all those j`s and om`s and ção`s, calls to the front desk from guests speaking Portuguese, or even heavily accented Spanish, can be nerve-wracking experiences for the ill-prepared. However, I`m not the only one who politely nods and smiles... when asked about the forecast. I`ve watched seasoned receptionists, Chileans and Argentines alike, get battered by the Portuguese wave these past few weeks. Our only defense is to sign. Speak slowly and make lots of gestures. Lately I`ve just been pointing at things - room keys, trail maps, lift tickets, all of which I put conveniently in reach. To ease the language barrier, management has organized Portuguese classes for employees who are interested. The result: more Portuguese all the time. Misunderstandings still occur on a daily basis, but we`re learning. Fortunately, the Brazilians that I`ve met in Portillo have been understanding, laid-back, beach types from Sao Paulo and Rio - which brings me to the second my second observation.

     Brazilians, or at least those staying in Portillo, generally stick to the groomers. I`m going to go out on a limb and say that there are zero ski resorts in Brazil, meaning few serious skiers. Like I said, beach types. It`s a known fact that off-piste terrain in Portillo stays fresh for longer than it should. In reality, it`s not only the Brazilians that I should thank for leaving the powder alone; lots of Chileans and Argentines guests keep to Princesa too. But my point is that from June until gringo season, the only ones making the traverses and lapping Roca Jack are the employees, instructors, the ski patrol. It`s incredible. One storm and I expect solid skiing under Plateau for a week. I`ve skied un monton de montanñas and never have I competed less for fresh tracks. That`s Portillo for the moment: lots of Brazilian guests tearing up groomers, content to stay off the va et vients. Working the front desk during July can be frustating, but with the trade-of being more snow longer, well... ¡Tudo bem!

Tuesday, July 12, 2011

Twinnings Polynesia Portillo

     Portillo staffers often compare the hotel to a cruise ship. Without a nearby village, all food, entertainment, and lodging are, like with a cruise ship, contained in one place.* But I hate that analogy. Cruise ships are fine - if you`re looking to do nothing and gorge yourself for ten days. Food poisoning, pirates, and binging are all things we here at Portillo try to avoid. So let`s scrap the cruise ship analogy. Yes, this a self-contained establishment, but it is immobile and classy. The surrounding waters are all frozen.

 (photo courtesy of Diego Alvarez)
     Despite the rant, I will admit that, especially this week, Portillo is wearing its sailor`s cap. It`s Family Week once again and the hotel has more going on than a Disney liner. Since Saturday there`s been a magic show by Carlos Arce, a Polynesian dance and music hour, and an intimate wine tasting of the Garces Silva Vineyard. In between these nightly events have been daily yoga and pilates classes, futbòl tournaments, and tubing sessions. Let`s not forget that we`re in the middle of the Copa de Amèrica tournament, meaning games are being screened daily in both the disco and cine. Go back a few posts (Chile vs. Mexico) to understand the futbòl ethos in Portillo.

     For better or worse, there will be no more Chileans dancing like Polynesians this week. The remaining activities, though, should keep guests busy and satisfied. Tomorrow night Twinings returns for another tea tasting. Despite my initial doubts, these tastings have become quite popular. Sober, aromatic fun. On Thursday the weekly Carrera de Sol will be held all day on Plateau (it`s a ski race) for anyone who`s interested. The winners will be announced on Friday, and the award ceremony is always fun. I expect that instructor Heidi will bust out her accordion for the occasion. Also on Friday, as the last big event, is the Red Bull Party. Here`s the scene: beautiful people chugging liquid energy, techno pours from the background. Dreams come true. Everyone remembers their last night in Portillo fondly, albeit vaguely. So that`s the week in sum. As always, join us.

*Technically, there`s also the Posada, the understated employee hangout across the street. Not many guests venture in that direction, however. I`m probably the only one who advertises it in reception. Even though it will always belong to the community of employees,  if you`re going to spend a week at the hotel, the Posada is a must-do.



Monday, July 11, 2011

Davenport does Everest

     You really have to follow this guy closely... If you don't, he might just lay turns down the world's highest peak without you knowing. That is Chris Davenport, world-class skier and mountaineer. The last I saw or heard of Chris was a year ago, when he hosted his annual freeride camp at Portillo. At the time, he'd also just completed his Antarctic adventure, which was captured beautifully in the ski odyssey, Australis (http://antarcticskiodyssey.com). The daring film is not your typical ski movie, nor is Chris your typical shredder. Almost immediately, Australis proves to be more than just ski porn. It's a testament to the fearsome yet arresting Southern Pole, undaunted exploration, and one man's ability to climb, ski, and inspire like few others. If you think I sound too gushy... then you haven't met this guy.

      Did I mention that Chris is just plain nice? Like I said, he was at Portillo last summer, hosting his camp, and, well, being the hotel's most visible ambassador. Chris has been coming to Portillo for years, usually with his young family, and is well-acquainted with the staff. He's totally personable, and although he may not remember this, he and I talked over a beer one night in the disco. I asked him how he'd ended up skiing professionally, what's changed about the scene, etc. Not only was Chris cool talking to a lowly receptionist, but the ski hero even wanted to know about my life. Like I said, the dude is nice. If you continue to think I sound too gushy... then you're a sad cynic with no appreciation for meaningful interactions.

     Anyways, instead of resting on his laurels after years in the spotlight, Davenport continues to redefine "professional skier." As Australis and the Everest trip demonstrate, Chris has capably embraced mountaineering, combining it with his first love of skiing. The Lhotse descent and Everest summit took place back in May, which means it may be old news for a lot of you. However, I couldn't resist sharing the trip - two skiers, 50 degree Himalayan sidewalls, O2 tanks, a real f@%#ing adventure. If you're interested, Chris' website has got photos and videos of the whole thing. I personally stumbled across an interactive from skinet.com, where the powder day on Lhotse is elegantly documented.

http://chrisdavenport.com/news/
http://www.skinet.com/skiinginteractive/flashfiles/63_75_05_18/LHOTSE.html

   So congratulations to Chris on the achievement! And to all of you following the blog, I'll be writing  more on Chris' adventures once he returns to Portillo later this summer. Now get off your computers and climb a mountain.

Saturday, July 9, 2011

Portillo's mascot

Welcome to my hotel, gringo
     Her name is Rasca and she is a very large St. Bernard. This post, which is dually motivated by  comments regarding Rasca's last blog appearance and my own desire to describe the dog, is about her. Where should I begin?

     I don't know how old Rasca is. But that doesn't matter. She's ageless. Should Rasca pass away, however unfortunate that might be, I'm sure she'd be quietly and immediately replaced. Would they name the next St. Bernard, "Rasca"? Is the present Rasca, even the original Rasca? Who knows. Well, actually, a lot of people know her story, as she belongs to a rather long and prestigious line of St. Bernards that have given their lives to the hotel. And only one has been named Rasca. According to resident historian/telephone operator, Elena, Rasca's predecessors include: Diego, Barry, Madeleine, Domino, among others, who's names I've already forgotten. Diego was the most recent, but had to be put down due to an "accident" with a guest that nobody talks about. Here's what I think happened, as I see this type of thing happen everyday: some naive little child grabbed the dog's face and shook it violently. Diego, being an animal, responded... and, well, that was his end. This story also contains the secret to Rasca's personal longevity, as well as her ever-growing popularity.


So much life
     Rasca is the laziest dog that I have ever known. I wasn't joking with the previous caption: "Rasca, uncharacteristically doing something." I've met some slow moving beasts, but Rasca takes the cake. Or rather, Rasca slowly drags her body towards the cake and engulfs it gradually like a boa constrictor. Going back to the previous story, Rasca is treated like the family dog around here. Except there are hundreds of families in Portillo. Instead of being petted vigorously, and with so much love, a few times each day, Rasca encounters gangs of super-affectionate children over and over and over again. Everyday, all season. And she just takes it. What's a dog's primary survival skill? DON'T BITE THE CHILDREN. Fortunately for Rasca this skill was learned many years ago.

     Now let me clarify: Rasca does not get abused. Far from it, actually. This dog has got the perfect life. Eat, lay around, lay around outside, repeat. I'm sure that she's a very happy dog. What intrigues me, though, is her benevolent tolerance, which brings us to her rising popularity. See, there are two ways of looking at Rasca - a) she does absolutely nothing or b) she's does everything she's supposed to. I've clearly explained the former; Rasca chills hard. To understand the latter perspective, I need to describe a common scenario. A travel weary family arrives at the hotel, three kids in tow. Rasca is sleeping on the lobby floor. The kids, very bored after the 3 hour trip from Santiago, want to run around. Yet instead of going wild, the children are effortlessly pulled towad the big ol`St. Bernard that rests at their feet. She opens her eyes and they freak out. She rolls on her back and little hands shoot onto her stomach. Thanks, Rasca, I can now receive these guests in peace. Then, after the parents have completed their check-in, the whole family decides it`s picture time with their new friend. Everybody gathers around the canine. Hold still, Rasca. Perfect. Oops - photo was blurry. Take it again. Rasca, don't move. Great. The family gets their wonderful snapshot with the Portillo's official mascot. Can you name many other dogs capable of holding the same pose for hours? Me neither.

Celebratory close-up
    So here's to Rasca, our dog! The one and only St. Bernard in Portillo since I've know this incredible place. She may not be the most active, and I often wonder if she's all there, but she's the life of the lobby and an attraction to all. Plus she doesn't bite the children. Thanks, Rasca!

Friday, July 8, 2011

Swatch Skiers Cup

     Coming to Valle Nevado, Chile this September, the Swatch event has been coined, "the first ever big-mountain, freeride team matchplay event." It's basically a play off the standard big-mountain contest, consisting of two teams from Europe and the Americas. The idea is to epically combine freeride and slopestyle formats, and the two team captains, Kaj Zackrisson and Mark Abma, will be selecting the top skiers from their respective hemispheres for this sole purpose of big-mountain devastation. Sick lines, big crowds, parties, Chile. Sounds fun, right?

     The event will take place from the 5th-12th of September at Portillo's nearby "competitor," Valle Nevado. But, hey, what's good for Chilean skiing, and the Skier's Cup most definitely is, benefits all of us. So props to Valle for landing the contest. Depending on my days off, I may even try and hop over and watch the action myself. No doubt it's going to a fun time. For more information on the event, including a neat little trailer, check out the following article: http://www.powdermag.com/latest-news/swatch-skiers-cup-slated-for-chile-in-sept/

Thursday, July 7, 2011

Live Music: Mangosta

     This is likely to be the first of many entries on the various bands that visit Portillo throughout the season. Live music is a big part of the nightlife here, and from ten o`clock to midnight, every night, the bar becomes an intimate venue. For anyone who doesn`t know the layout of the bar: there`s not a ton of space. Thus the musicians can, and do, brush up against the closest listeners. Of course, there are those who will bemoan such tightness, but for most guests it`s a welcome experience. The bar gets loud, the energy palpable. And depending on the mood, livelier listeners move their tables to the wall and really groove.

    Of the ten or so bands that play at the hotel each season, nobody does it better than Mangosta. Each group has its propio estilo, and there`s clearly something to be said about soft sounds and relaxed evenings. However, what the night owls want is noise, energy, and songs they can dance too. Mangosta, who plays tonight for the first time this season, is truly crowd-pleaser. The two lead singers banter hilariously between songs, poking fun at the guests and even the covers songs that follow. As the following blurb from the group´s myspace page describes, Mangosta was originally a TOTO tribute band. But their versatility is phenomenal, and guests will enjoy the everything from Michael Jackson to Miley Cyrus. Seriously, these guys are jokers. You don`t want to miss out.

     Este magistral grupo de Músicos Sesionistas chilenos (MANGOSTA) nacen en el verano de 1993, como proyecto de banda instrumental en el estilo Jazz-Fusión, y banda tributo a TOTO, fundada por Leo Araya (Bajo), Yuri Hevia (Batería), Sebastian Almarza (Piano) y Leo Ahumada (Guitarra).
En 1994 Tom Urrejola se integra como Vocalista. Desde esa fecha comienzan sus actuaciones en todo el país, haciendo tributo a los mejores clásicos internacionales de grupos, como: Earth, Wind & Fire, Cool & the Gang, Stevie Wonder, Michael Jackson, Toto, etc.

It's pretty here

     Trying to communicate the beauty and ambiance of Portillo is often difficult. I frequently look around in awe, thanking whatever it was that brought me here. So instead of blabbering on about my experience in the mountains, and what Portillo is all about, I thought I'd share some of my favorite photos of the past two weeks. De nada.

Keepin' the road clear
A splash of orange
The rustic old train station
Dig the contrast
El Octogono... it has eight sides
Rasca, uncharacteristically doing something...
El Inca
Smiles and smugness in the bar
...
The deck gets a dusting

Tuesday, July 5, 2011

Portillo in a day

     I need to get something off my chest: I`ve been here for two weeks and haven`t been skiing. I know I´m a fraud. The ski blogger who hasn´t been skiing. Fortunately, those cruel circumstances have changed and I was lapping Plateau from nine to five today. The reality was that with our present snow conditions, employees were barred from the slopes. Even the hallowed instructors were told to stay away from off-piste terrain. It`s an understandable decision, really. Portillo needed to conserve the snow that it had for paying guests. But, as I said, all of that changed today. Although WE`RE STILL NOT SELLING DAY TICKETS (I apologize in advance to those who didn`t get the memo and show up tomorrow expecting to ski), the receptionists were allowed a beautiful ski day, and beautiful it was.

The view from Tio Bob`s (photo circa last season)
     I began my morning with pate de cerdo on a stale roll. Some coffee too. Typical employee power breakfast. By nine o`clock I was riding up Plateau lift, the yellow hotel growing smaller and smaller behind me. What´s great about Plateau is that it`s fast and steep. Within minutes, I´m hopping on Condor, the va et vient lift near the top of Plateau, which takes skiers up another 500 ft. If you`ve never used one of Portillo`s t-bars, you`re missing an integral ski experience. Condor, four "seats" wide, literally tears up a 25 degree pitch at ten miles per hour. Approximately. If you`re not ready, the ride is over in seconds. Good skiers and boarders fall off the va et vients all the time. I, of course, made it to the top just fine - but not without holding on for dear life. The consequent run from there to the bottom of Plateau has three different pitches, lots of advanced terrain, and plenty of room for everyone. By 9:20, I was on my way back up Plateau, ready for more.

Another view from Tio Bob`s (photo circa today)
       I was up and down Plateau and Condor until close to noon, when my legs forced me to break and grab some water. My Portillo roommate of two years runs the Ski Box, one of two on-mountain restaurants operated by the hotel, so it`s a regular stop for me. The Ski Box is just that: a box. It sits at the bottom of Las Lomas, near la Princesa, waiting for the tired and hungry to come by for a beer. Sitting with my boots off on the Ski Box patio, I couldn´t have been happier. Portillo is such a beautiful place, no matter where you`re looking. I basked in the sun for an hour before leaving to meet a friend at Tio Bob´s for lunch. Now the Ski Box and Tio Bob`s are two very different establishments. The former is meant to be a quick stop. It`s seating is only outdoors, and the menu consists of easy fixes and lots of beverages. Tio Bob`s, on the other hand, is a definition restaurant, complete with a wait staff, indoor seating, and an array of excellent food options. What separates Tio Bob`s, however, from every other on-mountain restaurant that I`ve visited is the view... and the salads. The view is: unbelievable, unbeatable, scary, and 360 degrees. You can look down onto the Laguna, back towards the hotel, or up at the jagged peaks that surround the restaurant. For the view alone, Tio Bob`s is a must-do for all guests. But the greatness of Tio Bob`s doesn`t stop at the view. As I alluded to, the salad options are absolutely incredible. Of course, there`s a selection of hamburgers, choripans, and steaks. Yet it`s the gigantic host of fresh and creative ingredients at the salad bar that always surprise and impress. Today, I ate more vegetables in one sitting than I`ve had in months. This was followed by a cold beer. Too good.

The Ski... Box
By three o`clock it was time to call it quits. My next move was classic Portillo: a dip in the hot tub. Sore muscles needed relaxing, and there`s nothing better than some pool time after a hard day of skiing. I floated, waded, and watched the sky. The views never stop here. After the soak, it was off to the showers and the reception desk, where I´ve been since five. One of evening`s first queries was, "How are the ski conditions?"... Finally, I thought, I can answer truthfully. "Increible," I replied. "We skied all day and the snow was great."

Monday, July 4, 2011

Chile vs. Mexico

Chi-chi-chi!
Le-le-le!
Vive Chile!

     As I write this, it’s halftime of Chile versus Mexico (sub-22) in the Copa de América. La Roja is down, one to zero. It’s obviously a big game, and the match is being watched throughout the hotel - in the cine, the disco, and the staff cafeteria. Long ago, Portillo made the wise decision to not install televisions in any of the rooms. Not only does this prevent families from wasting their vacation in front of the boob tube, but, at moments like this, it also brings guests together – and the employees too.

    See, the gringos a few and far between in the cordillera. There are currently ten or so guests from the states staying at the hotel (peak gringo season isn’t until August). Throw in the thirty American instructors, plus myself, and I’m guessing there are still less than fifty gringos within a ten-mile radius. This means lots of Argentines, Brazilians, Uruguayans, and of course, a whole ton of Chileans. Besides all of them all being from SouthAmerica, what else connects each of these nationalities? Fútbol. Puro fútbol. This means that everyone wants to watch the game(s), and because of the aforementioned decision made by management, they have to watch it together. The result is a loud, fun time for all. I just said, “Vamos Mexico!” and almost got attacked… by my friends.

Chi-chi-chi
Le-le-le
Vive Chile!

    Chile just scored! The game is tied… Damn, this fun. One of my first memories in Portillo was watching Chile play Spain in the World Cup last summer. Within minutes of our arrival to the hotel, I was pulled into the staff cafeteria, where everyone had gathered to watch the match. We didn’t win, but the experience was unforgettable. Although I’d only been in Chile for only a few days at that point, I quickly learned that Chileans, and Portillo, love their fútbol. I watched many more games that month – Brazil, Uruguay, Argentina, and Chile were all contenders until the very end. Every game was an event. With the world, or at least all of Latin America, packed into one hotel, how couldn’t it be? Another goal for Chile. If this keeps up there’s going to be quite the party in La Posada tonight. Vamos!


Gastón and Diego celebrating the victory


Sunday, July 3, 2011

Family Week

     As a receptionist, I'm used to seeing smalls gangs of children running through the hotel lobby. It's generally a straight line, beginning with the oldest. Where are they going? To the bar juvenil, with its pings pong tables and climbing wall; to the cine, replete with giant poofs and an even bigger screen; to the living room, where they'll find games and more games. There's more than one reason why kids love Portillo, and it has to do with the fact that skiing is but one of the many activities available throughout the day. So the children tear through the halls, fully occupied and with smiles on their faces.

     Meanwhile, small gangs of parents also gather. They gather on the deck, at the pool, and in the living room. With their kids busy exploring, they're able to truly relax - (mostly) free of parental concerns. Therein lies the beauty of Family Week, which officially ended on Saturday. Still, at the moment, the hotel is filled with more mischief-makers than in all of June. Those small gangs have grown to large columns, and Entretenciones has adjusted its activities, meaning more to do for everyone. Yes, it's a busy time, but Portillo thrives on balancing that business and recreation with moments of tranquility and downtime. For me, that means a hard day of skiing followed by a slow lunch at Tio Bob's... hours at the pool... and a cafecito in the living room. It's called Family Week, and not Kid's Week, for a reason: Mom and Dad have as much to look forward to in Portillo as their Jenga-loving offspring.


Maria, Pablo, Diego, Miguel, Elena, Sara de la familia Valdés!
 Oh, and it snowed since my last entry! The storm started late afternoon on Wednesday and lasted through the night. Guests awoke to fresh powder and sunny skies. The skiing was phenomenal. Below is the picture of the day, in my opinion. Enjoy!

Friday, July 1, 2011

"The truth is not for all men..."

     "... but only for those who seek it." That`s a quote from Ayn Rand, and I think it can be applied quite literally to this blog. Only those readers who truly seek new entries, or rather stumble upon them via Twitter, facebook, or the Portillo website will ever see this blog... and all the wonderful things (and truth) that it contains. So for those who seek, I shall provide! Here`s a crazy fact, all you truth-seeking ski bums:

When Portillo opened its doors in 1949, it was South America`s first hotel and ski resort. 

     History is on our side, so no matter how many other centros de ski may try and compete, remember: Ski Portillo is the original. Truth. Don`t believe me? Check out these vintage photos of old timers shredding las pistas más viejas en Chile!

The va et vient lifts are still trademark Portillo
50`s cool